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The plastic gear on the cassette carriage often breaks. This usually leaves the tape trapped in the machine and if tape eject is attempted it can result in more broken parts ( such as the inner
and outer cassette flaps ). Sony supply a 'carriage modification kit' which
contains an improved set of gears and unlike the original are made of metal
as opposed to plastic. To fit this kit the carriage must be removed from the deck. This
can be a tricky job because the front panel must removed first. If you attempt this task then
pay special to the rod which connects to the bottom of the carriage before removal
Dec 1997: The kit is nolonger available from Sony.
The picture shows a complete carriage. The circled areas shows
the location of the loading gears
It has been known for these replacement units to fail after a few years operation. However, unlike the original ones they can usually be repaired by replacing the reservoir electrolytic capacitors inside.
The DC to DC converter also supplies the tuning voltage hence when it fails no channels can be received.
Dec 1997: The DC to DC is no longer available from Sony.
Take a look at the DC to DC converter page for full information on fixing the unit. Including circuit diagrams.
The best remedy is to remove the glue from
the device. To do this first remove the rotor from
the bottom of the drum by undoing the lock-nut.
Sometimes, however, it is enough to wait for the
damp to dry out.
Quick fault guide
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Fault Solution
Blank unmodulated raster on playback of own recordings. Clean or replace the audio/control track head
Capstan running fast in playback and record. Check IC006 for failure
Capstan running slow. Check IC002 on the SS11 board for failure
Chewing tapes. Check the condition and positioning of the pinch roller
Clock incorrect and flickers during recording. Check IC601 on panel SS11 for failure.
Colour patterning on picture. Check IC605 on panel SS11 for failure
Eject LED flashing at switch on then goes into standby. Suspect excessive friction in the front loading mechanism
Intermittently ejects tape. Check transistor Q633 for failure
Intermittent loss of display when warm. Check for failure of IC201 on the TM31 panel
Intermittent loss of e-e picture. Check filter SF001 on tuner panel for thermal failure
No or incorrect colour in playback. Check resistor R114 for failure
No or loss of picture, no colour during playback. Check capacitor C38 on the RV7 board for failure
No capstan motor rotation. Check fusible resistor R530 (0.2 ohm on SS-11 board) for open circuit. Replace it with an electronic fuse (Sony part:
No picture during playback of colour recordings. Check for failure of IC005 on the RV7 panel
No remote control operation. Check capacitors C203 and C204, if OK then check IC201
No sound in playback or e-e. Check diode D515 on panel AM1 for failure
No tape remaining indicator. Check IC501 on panel JR for failure.
Permanent drum rotation. Check resistor R329 on panel SS11 for failure.
Poor or low sound, back tension setting and audio head ok. Check for correct operation of op amp chip IC520 (UPC14581) then check switching chip IC521.
Poor or noisy pictures. Clean the tape path then check the setting of tape guide no. 5. If OK check for dry joints around transistor Q701.
Self switching to other functions, LED's flashing at random. Check IC601 on the SS11 panel for failure
Stops after few seconds, no tape take up. Check fuse F001 on the SS11 panel for open circuit.
Will not load tape, eject LED flashing. Check the unload end switch for poor contacts failure.
Will not switch on. Check capacitors C203 and C204 if OK then check IC201 for failure.
No power up. Front panel LEDs not alight. Check mains switch at rear of unit is set to on.
cant load tape If you can`t physically get atape into the slot more than half way (ie past the guides above the tape visible when cover is off) These are two small pieces of silver metal with a black rubber band round them either side of the carriage - One of these may have dropped lower than the other, preventing a tape being inserted.
I have seen 2 c9s like this. In this case, get a finger round the back and push this guide up as you insert a tape. The motor will try to take it after the tape has gone under the guide. Push the tape in with adequate force, but don`t push too hard. If you get it right, the tape will load and thread up normally. Then, look directly below the 3rd tooth of the "L" shaped plastic gear which is mounted on the side of the carriage, you will see a small metal lug in the same place on each side of the carriage. This lug should point 90 degrees into the carriage. One of them will be bent, probably to only a 45 degree angle. Use a flat screwdriver or similar to bend it back to 90 degrees. When you are happy both lugs match eachother, eject the tape normallly. The vcr should now load tapes normally.
split threading gear If you have a split threading gear (grating sound when threading and unthreading) it nneds to be replaced. Undo the two screws holding the haed amp can, then lift it over on its hinges. The split gear is the larger of the two black pulleys you see with a band betwen them. Lift the band off the large pulley and then use a small screwdriver to lift the o ring off the top of this pulley. The pulley will now lift easily off. Replace making sure the teeth of the two gears mesh. Refit the o ring and refit the band.
That clunky, twangy sound on rewind/f.fwd Don't panic! You probably don't need a new upper drum ass'y. I used to work on these machines when they first appeared on the UK market and even then, (often under warranty) we used to get quite a few C9/F1's with this fault! (The other common one was dried up electrolytics in the PSU). I was an apprentice at the time, and my "boss" showed me this simple fix which I never forgot; thouroghly 'scrub' the upper drum with an ink rubber, yes, an ink rubber! Preferably, one of those that looks like a white 'pencil'. It works, honest! Obviously avoid the heads; I am still running a C9 today (something you can hardly lift has got to be good, innit). Have fun! [email me: bozontour@hotmail.com]
No freeze-frame advance or 1/10th speed, but 1/5th OK. If freeze frame forward/back and 1/10th speed do not work reliably or at all, even though 1/5th works, a slight anticlockwise adjustment of RV017 on the JR-1 board (underneath the tuner panel) should fix it.
Muffled audio, may be intermittent Muffled sound on good recordings, which may be momentarily overcome by applying gentle pressure to the top edge of the tape as it leaves the audio/control head, is of course usually caused by audio head wear (even if the heads look perfect). Head alignment is the other possibility but should be right unless someone has been twiddling.
Replacement of the A/C head is a fairly major undertaking because the cables weave all over the shop. Remove the loading motor to gain access to the cable run beside it. Though the cables are routed along with the erase head cable, the latter is not connected in any way and its cables can be refitted after A/C head cables have been installed. Both bottom panels need to be swung out to gain access to connectors because the control head cable goes one way (through cable ties too) and the stereo audio cables go another.
The A/C head assembly all comes off with just the two screws on the top plate (one has a black earthing wire with it). Care not to misplace the shims under the top plate. Little or no A/C head alignment should be necessary after replacement.
Cassette loads but won`t thread. Either it is the threading motor which is faulty, or possibly the metal bar which connects to the bottom of the cassette bay from the right hand side of the carriage could be bent. This bar could have got bent if the carriage has been replaced at some point. Remove the carriage and check that the two parts of this bar are not bent. If so, straighten them and reassemble.
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