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The Sony SLC5 model requires a new belt kit as a minimum but that might not be enough. These machines are very old now and require electrolytics (the Sanyo light blue ones) on the servo booards underneath to be replaced and the circuits realigned for a stable picture.
Also the electrolytics in the power supply are likely to fail. Repair is a big job requiring at least a multimeter to reset the servo circuits.
regards Noel - Betaheaven.com (in Australia)
I bought a used SL-C9 and upon turning it on (without cassette) it goes straight to lacing, then unlaces along with some unhealthy sounds and the eject light stays blinking.
Can you please help me?
hello everyone I bought an old sony sl-c5e and I wanted to know if there are user manuals. I intrude the cassette, I hear noise but the play, stop, rew and ff buttons don't seem to work. The light comes on when the button is pressed but the cassette is stopped. Thanks in advance
Sorry, i ment horizontal lines not vertical
I have a C-SL30 that i can’t get working properly. The image is black and white only, and full of vertical black stripes and noise. I’ve so far replaced all electrolytes on the YV25 board and also C319 and C320 on the PSU. Don’t know what to do next?
Tim please contact me I’d be happy to rebuild you PSu for you mate
I am working on a deep-dive documentary on the videotape format war of the 1980s for a YouTube series, I'd love to hear from anybody who was either working in retail of the machines around the the time of the format war, working in the hire of tapes or machines or anybody else with any interesting stories about the Betamax/VHS format war. If you'd like to get in touch please drop me an email at [email protected] - Either in Europe or North America, I'd love to hear from you.
Hello! I have a issue with the Betamax I recently bought.
It is a Sony SL-5000 from 1981. The issue is this:
I insert a cassette/tape into the VCR. After about five seconds, the tape ejects. I manage to get it to stay in after a few tries, but it makes a loud, fast spinning noise, and then a click. If I push PLAY, the green light turns on. No picture on the TV appears. I push FAST FORWARD, the picture appears on TV, being sped up. I push REWIND, the picture appears on TV, being rewinded. The only local VCR repair shop told me that ,"they don't work on Betamax machines." If anyone could tell me how to resolve this issue, I would appreciate it! Thank you so much!
Once that loading ring is fully retracted the locking mechanism should be free'd so you can pop up the tape,(albeit with tape hanging out the front that has'nt been spooled up).
I would'nt try to force anything.I've seen a few with broken parts by some too keen to get the tape out without the vcr being in the proper mode.
You have used the correct method to retract the loading ring by turning the worm gear on the side.Make sure nothing is preventing this ring from retracting fully as, until it is ,the cassette hatch will be locked in the down position.
Hope this helps?....................Kevin
I have a Sanyo Beta VTC5000 machine since new (1980's) Now it has a problem. It will not power up & there is a full cassette stuck in the drive. I find one of the thick, small, approx. 1 inch drive belts is broken. I cannot eject the cassette. I have managed to dismantle the case by first removing the cassette chamber top (two screws under a plastic strip.) Then I removed all the case-work - so most of the insides is visible if not accessible. Since the machine will not power up (the internal fuse is OK) how can I eject the cassette? Pressing the 'Eject Lever' does nothing. Though the Cassette was loaded and there was tape in the loading mechanism, I have managed to return the tape to its cassette by manually operating the pulley with its worm-gear situated next to the Drum-Head. Whilst operating this I took up the slack tape by manually turning the take-up spool. Now I need to manually eject the tape. But how? and where can I do this? On each side of the cassette there are two heavy helical springs keeping two levers clamped down onto the top of the cassette. And, as I said, the eject lever doesn't work. Once this is resolved I shall ask for help in getting the machine working again. Michael Gamble UK
1/ The "jig used for aligning the capstan is just a 1/2 inch wide metal strip with a right angle end which is long enough to sit on the ACE assembly bottom metal edge and against the capstan to indicate when it is at right angels to the ACE assembly so the tape is not being dragged high or low as it is drawn past the heads by the capstan roller.
Please check that the capstan roller is not faulty in the bearings or on its surface such that it applies uneven pressure to the tape being held against the capstan in play.
This does not affect rewind as the capstan roller is released but the capstan not being perpendicular will.
2/ You can use a good/prerecorded tape and observe the video waveform on a CRO (cathode ray oscilloscope) as per the service manual to align the tape path correctly and set the tracking centre point. The first step is to do the electrical alignment for the tracking and later if necessary a mechanical adjustment of the ACE assembly position.
Hola del sony betamax sl 8080 no bajan las teclas de play , revobinado ,avance.GRACIAS
Good evening David, sorry from now on I'll post in English, thanks for your answer unfortunately the player didn't work it has several problems, I'll get a super beta soon, and I'll ask you for help, thank you very much ;)
I was confused The Sony SL-F20 is the player
Toni, do you write in English?
In this chat the people write in English, you can use the google translator
The Sony SL-C20 is a player only
Noel, I like your answer but I don't have alignment tapes but I'll look
I have seen in the service manual parts needed for adjustment, called "Jigs"
The tape folding during Play and Rewind (including fast forward) are tape path and tape tension alignment issues.
Possible issues to be confirmed or ruled out on Sony models.
1/ The capstan MUST be parallel to the ACE head assembly. Sony have an alignment jig for that which basically sits in the gap of the ACE upper and lower surfaces to indicate if its parallel.
(you can cheat a bit using adjustments while its rewinding to get that right once the next steps have been checked.
2/ The flip up guides are angled by black plastic strips mounted to the top of the head so that the tape wraps diagonally around the video head slot correctly.
Check they are not causing an issue as the tape should have equal tension and be flat top and bottom in all play modes around the back tape guide before the drum.
3/ Tape back tension in play should be 35 gm. You need an alignment tape with a meter in it to check that.
Buenas noches a todos desde España, antes de meterme en materia, queria pregunta algo, a llegado a mis manos un video beta sony SL-F20 pero en el listado de modelos de la web ese modelo no aparece el mas proximo es el SL-F25, es el mismo???? gracias a todos y un gran saludo ;)
noel all correct but in play + rew the tape bend by under in the zone between audio head and the capstan
I have now managed to remove the pinch roller from my Sanyo VTC-M machine. I was very tight and I was not able to do it manually, so I had to VERY carefully prise the plastic part up with a screwdriver. The roller has gone shiny and slightly concave. Does anyone know of a source for replacement pinch rollers? I contacted a company in Ireland who listed them on their web site, but they no longer have any in stock. Also an Australian eBay seller claimed to have some, but they never responded to my last message enquiring about the price.
How easy is it to remove the capstan from these machines to give this a proper clean? Looking at the underside of the deck it looks like the whole motor assembly and circuit board has to be removed.
You are right there - don't remove the upper drum unless you need to replace the heads.
Glad you fixed it. Must have been something holding the heads away from the chassis at some point.
noel, I only removed the drum electronic 1 from the drum and I put a drum electronic 2
I removed the drum again, I put again and now run correct
The problem is that the drum electronic 1 that perhaps has the hall effect sensor damage (I don't checked) but you told me that the drum is hard while the play led is enable, this is the reason
Other thing is how squeeze the 3 screws with a springs and washers under the drum
I squeezed to see the image correct but perhaps there is a method
And the up part of the drum I prefer DON'T REMOVE (2 screws with + hexagonal screw), this is only for change the heads
I am not sure if you have taken the upper drum off the video head assembly but if you have its possible that the upper drum is not aligned with the lower drum now. Spacers are used to set them in alignment which may get displaced when you disassemble them. the result of such an offset is that the heads protrude further at some points of the "drum slot" than at others. This shows up as uneven amplitude in the video head output as observed on an oscilloscope. Lower "wanted" signal versus noise = drop outs. Adjusting the guides cannot correct this issue. Moving your finger around the tape service as it is playing can pin point the location of the worst signal when they coincide on the playback screen.
Just a thought.
JHonBetaC20 I have the service manual of the Sony SL-F90 only in paper
I can make various photos and send you to email
I think that perhaps is the power supply or the display zone (bad welds)
Hello everyone, first I want to take the opportunity to introduce myself and thank this forum for any help to learn and be able to contribute on the repairs of these wonderful machines.
I have a Sony SL-F90 and the fault that it presents at the moment is that it turns on but the display remains completely illuminated, that is, as if it did not start correctly. None of the keypad works or picks up the tapes, the entire display simply stays lit.
Any place to start? Thank you
I understand that the hall effect works with a magnet piece in near or far repeated
How works the hall effect sensor of the drum if the magnet circle is always near?
Depends of the coils?
David, thank you, I appreciate very much your help (To Noel and any who reads too, of course). I don't need F60 , F30 as well as F60 looks completelly different. The part I'm interested would be these related to the motors, maybe voltages sources and control, as I don't want to believe both have brokendown just at the same time. I am also interested in the audio recording section, as the recorded sound is very low and I want to try to improve raising the recording level. If you could scan it in a scan service shop, I gladly would pay its cost, if not possible, photos are ok. my email is [email protected]
Kevin, I changed the drum electronics and now run the drum
Now my problem is that the part up of the image appears as dropout
I move some guides but is the same
I thought that is the drum in incorrect position
I pulse the part right under of the drum and the image is correct
I removed the 3 screws with springs and washer under the drum and I put again but continue the problem
toni I have the service manual of the Sony SL-F90 only in paper
I haven't the service manual of Sony SL-F60 but is in pdf here cheap:
I can make photos of the SL-F90 service manual and send to your email, I haven't scanner
¿What parts do you need?
Noel, thank you. When I press play, all the functions are executed except the rotation of the two motors, the image of the TV changes (snow or black due to lack of synchronism/video), the motor that picks up the tape acts and goes to stop after 1 second, the only problem is that the two motors do not work. With the F60 I don't know, but with the F30 the electronics are very very very different. I have found a schematic of the F60 for $15 and on the same site the one for the F90 for $50, in the site manuals-in-pdf . com, so it looks confirming they are different. Thank you very much
I have not seen an SLF90 but I assume its a similar chassis design to the SLF30 and SLF60 machines.
I have seen quite a few that have the plastic anchor point for the spring that locates the tape end sensor break off.
When you load a tape it does not sense the tape because it has not pulled the coil against the tape path location.
As a fix I drill the chassis and add a small screw to attach the spring.
The coil located is toward the centre of the machine on section of tape returning to the cassette after the capstan roller.
That may not be the problem but it is worth checking.
hello and thanks for reading. I have a SL-F90 which none of the two main motors, drum and capstan don't work. I have not found any schematic of it, neither free nor paid, only have checked that power supply are all the voltages when on, according to the regulator datasheet. Any help will be appreciated very much.
I bought a Sony SL-100 betamax recently. When I play tapes in it the picture disappears every couple of seconds. You can hear the motor fluctuate with speed and when it does the picture drops out. I notice that if I gently use my finger to place pressure on the head as it spins the picture will remain.
Could this be a sign that the caps in the servo section of the board need replacing? Or is it the voltage regulator?
I’ve replaced the caps on the power supply already.
Thanks in advance.
I may have mislead you because I was working on an SL50ME not the 500ME - I don't now the difference.
But I had a spares SL30ME with other issues and the power supply rails were the same even though the design was different so I used that.
The service manual I obtained talked about both models.
My pleasure and glad it all worked out well for you.
Yes it very much sounds like a faulty hall effect.The issues you have are typical.The resistance to the heads turning whilst the PLAY light is lit and then free spinning when it's not are proof it's this.
I bought a Sony SL-C30 in a second hand market from Spain by 15 Euros (the seller told me that work correct)
But not, the problem is that when I pulse play the drum don't run, while I move with a finger the drum, cost me move, after a few seconds stops the machine, the same in rew and ff
Without 220v or with 220v in stand by or in on I can move the drum with a finger easily
I have other Sony SL-C30 with the drum heads broken but other drum circuit
This occur when the hall effect sensor is bad or occurr other thing?
That IC was faulty on the VTC-5000. I now have the correct reel motor operation. The VC1 trimmer is defective so I've ordered a few, just waiting for them to arrive and see if the colour comes back properly.
Many thanks for your advice!
I wonder if anyone could offer some advice please.
I have a Sony SL-C20UB which has a problem with the capstan motor speed at the beginning of every cassette I've tired. It runs fast for approx 2mins, then settles down to the correct speed. If I press pause and then let it play after the first few minutes of running fast, it still runs fast for about 10 seconds, then settles back down. I've had a quick look at the electrolytic capacitors on the capstan motor board and they're not leaking or bulged.
Is this a common fault with this model?
Many thanks for your time.
Thank you very much for taking the time to respond.
I’m admittedly a bit of a newbie when it comes to fixing these decks myself, so forgive me but, how would I best go about checking the power supply rails? Which tools/instruments would I use? And if this was the source of the problem, is it easy to fix / replace?
Out of interest, do you manage to repair your SL 500ME MK2 with the similar issue?
I have had a similar problem with an SL-500ME MKII and it was due to a failing power supply. Monitor the power supply rails in turn before and after the fault happens to see if that is the cause.
Another thing to check is the tape end sensor. Sometimes the spring on it breaks. This is a common problem on SLF30 machines and causes the machine to stop because it thinks that the tape is broken.
As your belt is only driving the counter and you have purchased another belt that is too large I suggest you cut the new belt with a sharp blade at an acute ange of about 30 degrees and then work out how long it needs to be by threading it around the pulleys then do an identical cut to remove the excess. Super glue the cut ends together and that should work fine.
regards Noel (Betaheaven.com)
I just bought a Sanyo VTC 5300P. The belt that drives the counter mechanism has perished. It measures approximately 2.5" long so I purchased a square cut one with an inside circumference of 4.9", but it is too big. Does anyone know what inside circumference would be suitable for this replacement?
Wonder if anyone can help, please? I have an issue with a Sony SL-500ME MKII Super Beta, that I can’t pinpoint. Tape loads and plays nicely for about 2-3 minutes and then stops abruptly. At which point, FF/RR/Play do not work (power light is still on) and the only option is to Eject the tape, and load it again. Plays through for 2-3 mins and stops again, with no visible sign of tape caught up or stuck. The tape ejects cleanly. I’ve tried different tapes and get the same result. Anyone have any ideas what the issue could be?
Many thanks for any help or advice!
Also the VTC 5000, 5150,6500 and 'M' series pinch rollers are the same.
The ONLY one which is NOT is the NX100. The center hole for this is a tad smaller, so won't fit on the shaft(hence why i keep seeing the wrong type replaced on this model from their VHS ones).
This also applies to the capstan motors ,they are incompatible despite 'looking similar'.
The way to remove the pinch roller on any Sanyo beta is to slightly wiggle the plastic part as you gently pull upwards.If it's been sitting a while or even stored in dubious conditions it may be a bit tight.
Make sure that you note HOW that part is angled before you remove it.It pushes or controls how much pressure the pinch roller has on the capstan shaft.
As for the area where it pivot's on the loading ring shaft.Like with the pinch roller plastic top cap ,if it's sat a while in humid conditions it may have seized a bit.It's is spring loaded so should ping back lightly when you push it inwards.You can put a tiny drop of oil on this pivot area and keep moving it to enable the oil to penetrate this and free it if it does'nt move back at all.
This can be done by removing it but is real fiddly to get the spring back in place.
Also the pinch rollers on most Sanyo beta's only need a clean or light abrading and whatever you do don't change if for the lighter rollers used on Sanyo VHS models. I've seen a few replaced on NX100 's with these and they have made the chrome on the capstan shaft pit top and bottom where the rubber contacts.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Pinch roller on Sanyo front-loader VTC-M series - is it really removed just by pulling the plastic cap on top? I've pulled as hard as I dare but it doesn't seem to want to shift, and I'm worried about damaging something by pulling too hard.
Also, the metal arm on which the pinch roller is mounted seems to be designed to rock back and forth a little, but this action is very stiff - should this be free?
Also will a VTC-5000 pinch roller fit the VTC-M series?
Apologies for all the questions!
In regards to the NX30 debate.
Can't remember seeing that but i have now seen the NX30 pictures and i admit i do like this model in black.I wonder if Sanyo would've sold a few more in the UK if offered in that color as well?
Seeing as how selling beta format machines in the UK at this time was getting more difficult then i can see why not.
For some reason thought they chose to call it in Spain the NX30. This was part of the UK 'M' series and the NX did'nt occur until their final UK beta The NX100 that was in black.
A great pity the UK was denied the VTC M50, a different styled and slightly better equipped M40 that was sold in Australia and called the 7500 in the USA.
Other countries also had the NX10 which was anther variant of the NX100 but with an 8 channel(as opposed to 12) tuner.
Also a shame they never offered the PAL version of their 7250 Superbeta which would've made a alternative to Sony's SLHF950.
Seeing as how the VTC 5000 and 5150 did share quite a few components then i would think that VC1 issue could very likely cause a similar issue. Although i do believe i've only ever seen it on the older 5000 (could be wrong).Sometimes it needs a tiny tweak but on others the part has to be replaced.Seeing how these models are so plentiful then it should'nt be an issue to get one.
Thanks for the reply.
That picture fault is through both the RF and BNC out. Does this model also have that suspect VR that you suggested for the vertical colour banding on the vtc5000? I won't be able to take a look at them til the weekend, so I'll report back then.
Incidentally, the replacement IC arrived this morning for the vtc5000, so I'm keeping things crossed it'll cure that constant reel motor problem.
Just referring back to an old discussion from way back in 2015 regarding the Sanyo VTC-NX30, because there seemed to be a misconception at the time that this model only has 2 heads. This is incorrect. I own a VTC-NX30, and it definitely has 3 heads, and even has a sticker on the top proclaiming this. As far as I can tell, the VTC-NX30 is identical to the VTC-M30, but finished in black instead of silver.
..Or even a slightly out of adjustment pot.
The issue is no doubt then on the bottom board.
Look for bad caps, damaged tracks.
Is this through RF or the BNC /connections?
This is my first post so bear with me. I have a C20 in a red cabinet. It's in pristine condition. Unfortunately it has developed a tape transport problem. I no longer require the machine and would be pleased to give it to any interested enthusiast.
Ahoy fellow betabusters! Slight issue with my Sony SL-2710. Randomly appearing horizontal, black pin streaks during playback of any tape! This occurs almost constantly. Very annoying. I've heard it's a cleaning issue. I've opened her up and cleaned the track/drum with Qtips/alcohol, but no change. I've been told that a beta cleaning cassette would do the trick. Any thoughts??
Thanks very much, Kevin!
I've just ordered a few. Fingers crossed it'll cure that problem.
Incidentally, could I pick your brains on a problem with a VTC-5150 please?
It's exhibiting symptoms of a badly worn/chipped/clogged video head. I changed it with 2 known good heads and still the same. Totally rubbish picture. I changed the pre-amp too for a known good one, still the same.
Many thanks again!
It's on the SY-1 board to the machines left (facing the front).
There are 4 alternatives for that IC.
Thank you very much for the suggestions to try. Which board is that suspect IC on please? I'll see if I can find a service manual to find out the IC number so I can try to source one.
I'm from Spain, here exits a company that many years ago sold video heads, mechanical from videos and belts (today only belts)
This company made a catalog for vhs, Beta and perhaps video2000
This catalogue has equivalents of heads and mechanics
I uploaded to my mediafire account for share here forever:
I wait to help to many people interested in the VCRS
In regards to the only one Hi-Fi channel on your M40.
Have you tried only one tape(pre recorded)? As occasionally some pre recorded ones can have issues with one or the other channel (not that common though).
Is it just on playback or is the vcr not capable of any sound on that channel, including EE?
Any dry joints to the associated sockets or controls to that channel on the boards?
Mick B :
In regards to the split picture with banding in the middle on your VTC 5000.
Is the tape you are using accidentally behind the plastic center finger inside the tape flap.It should be in front as it will only allow a partial tape wrap causing half a picture during playback.
failing that is the tape creased along the center?
If in the 'color banding issue' ,you mean blue and red vertical lines try adjusting trimmer VC1 on the bottom board.Seen that a few times.
In regards to the constant reel motor operation on your VTC 5000 try changing IC 3009.
I have a Sanyo vtc5000 that has constant reel motor running forward when a cassette is inserted. Pressing rewind doesn't kick the ilder to the rewind position and the reel motor doesn't reverse either. It plays ok (with a vertical colour banding problem), but when stop is pressed it returns the tape to the cassette as normal but the reel motor doesn't shut off.
I've never seen this fault before. Has anyone got an idea what the problem with the constant running reel motor could be please? I'll deal with the funky colour problem once that's sorted.
Hi all. I have a Sanyo M40 that seems to have a problem with the left HiFi channel. Sound on the right output is perfect. Surprising good picture too.
Tracking makes no difference. I've selected right output on the front panel so it's perfect right channel sound from the left and right output but not stereo.
hi i have a sanyo vtc5000 recorder and on playback the image is split in two with a bar across the middle anyone any ideas how i can fix
many thanks for any help
im still looking for the Sony SL-5400 or 5600 NTSC Betamax VCR operating instructions manual i cant find over the internet Can anybody tame a time to scan and send me any of these manuals pleasee my email is [email protected]
Any greetings will be appreciated
Slowly fixing all issues in the HF 950 (PSU, broken shaft couplers, broken 470n caps on RP31 board, broken gears / motor / position sensor in skate loading mechanism etc.).
Now there is strange problem: I have around 30 used cassettes. 90% of them produces 700 -800 mVpp signal on CN703 pin 3 (~1.2 Vpp measured on pin 14 of CX 20045 - this is the normal value, regarding the service manual). These cassettes have slight dropouts (short horizontal white lines). They are mainly Sony brands with golden letters on the tape protector door ("This side faces forward" etc). But 10% of Sony tapes with black text on the door generates higher signal, around 1.2 Vpp on CN703 pin 3 and 1.6 Vpp on CX 20045 pin 14 and the picture is perfect, without dropouts. All these are recorded with the same machine.
The recording signal on CN704 pin 1 and 5 is 4 Vpp (this is the normal value as manual states). I have tried to increase the record current (measured 5-6 Vpp on CN704 pin 1 and 5), but the "weak" tapes still reproduced only 800 mV on the testpoint.
I can't believe that 90% of tapes are bad. Why the VCR cannot record stronger signal onto them? Head issue? RP31 board problem?
Problem fixed: broken capacitor C636 (measured value: 16 uF).
Sony SL HF 950 issue: the VCR works properly, servo is ok. When I press the power button to turn off the device, it shuts off for 1-2 seconds, then turns on automatically and the capstan motor begins to run without control for 3-4 seconds then is stops. The system remains in "on" mode.
PSU voltages are correct and clean.
I'm terribly sorry for my post in German, I was a bit overenthusiastic...
I got my hands on two Betamax VCRs. Unfortunately both of them seem to have problems.
One is a beautiful gray SONY SL-HF100EC and the other is a red rebranded SONY SL-C20.
Both devices power up, all LED's and displays are glowing, the insert/eject mechanisms are working and the same applies to the tape transports. The drums are also spinning. However, that's about it. Both devices play neither picture nor sound.
With the SL-HF100EC there is at least a picture in forward scan. And when I let go of the fast forward button there is a picture as well as sounds for about 2 seconds, before the screen gets black. Same with pause, only that it plays for 6 seconds when I let go of the button.
With the SL-C20 it is even worse. The tape is running. But there is no picture nor sound. Not even in scan or pause mode.
Furthermore it snapped the tape I tested the device with when rewinding to the beginning.
In addition I noticed something that looked like shaved beard stubbles all over the tape mechanism inside the SL-HF100EC. A closer look however revealed that there hasn’t been a beard shaved off, but rather some tape. There occasionally is also a rustling or crackling noise and the tape is crinkled at the bottom afterwards.
After taking my first degree at the Youtube university I assumed that the problem was caused by the hall effect sensor. I cleaned them in both devices but the problems remained.
My skills concerning VCR’s are somewhat limited. I am educated in how they work, having worked in ENG, but in terms of electronics I’m a novice. I barely started soldering.
I’ve done some repairs on a few VHS machines, but the problems were mostly belts that turned into gunk and a misaligned tape mechanism.
However those Betamax machines are a different animal.
I’ve tasted blood in tinkering with old VCRs but right now I’m stuck and I hope someone here is able to lend me some help.
Yours sincerely Felix
Mir sind zwei Betamax-Maschinen in die Hände gefallen, die beide leider ihre Probleme haben.
Es handelt sich zum einen um einen wunderschönen grauen SONY SL-HF100EC in optisch einwandfreien Zustand und einen roten UNIVERSUM VR 2836 (SONY SL-C20 ).
Beide Geräte lassen sich einschalten, Displays und LED's leuchten, die Kassetteneinzüge funktionieren, das Band wird bei beiden Maschinen aufgefädelt und die Kopftrommeln laufen.
Aber damit war es das auch schon, beide Geräte geben weder Bild, noch Ton wieder.
Beim SL-HF100EC ist zumindest im Suchlauf ein Bild zu sehen und wenn man die Vorspultaste loslässt, wird ganz kurz normal abgespielt. Für eine Sekunde ist Bild und Ton da, doch dann verschwinden beide wieder.
Beim SL-C20 ist es noch schlimmer, dort läuft das Band zwar, aber es wird überhaupt kein Bild und kein Ton ausgegeben, nicht mal im Suchlauf oder kurzzeitig beim start der Wiedergabe. Beim zurückspulen zum Anfang der Kassette hat er außerdem das Band mit dem ich getestet habe zerrissen.
Desweiteren ist mir beim SL-HF100EC aufgefallen, dass der Bandmechanismus voller Haare oder Fussel ist (auf den ersten Blick sah es aus wie rasierte Stoppeln). So zumindest mein erster Eindruck. Bei nährerem Hinsehen erkannte ich jedoch, dass es sich beim "Bartwuchs" eher um Abrieb oder Späne handelte. Möglicherweise wird an irgendeiner Stelle im Mechanismus am Band herumgefräst. Gelegentlich ist auch ein Knistern zu hören und das Band ist dann an der Unterseite zerknittert.
Nach meinem Youtube- und Google-Studium dachte ich dass es vielleicht am Hallsensor liegt, aber nachdem ich diesen an beiden Geräten soweit ich es konnte vom Kleber befreit hatte, traten die Probleme weiterhin auf.
Meine Kenntnisse in Videotechnik sind ein Stück weit begrenzt. Zwar verstehe ich die Grundprinzipien der Technologie aufgrund meiner Ausbildung im Bereich der elektronischen Berichterstattung, aber meine Kenntnisse in Elektrotechnik sind quasi nicht existent. (Wenngleich ich gerade versuche das zu ändern und mich ans Löten herangewage).
Bei den VHS-Maschinen die ich in letzter Zeit repariert habe, lagen die Probleme größtenteils an aufgelösten Riemen und einem verstellten Auffädel-Mechanismus, aber dies lies sich leicht und ohne große E-Technik-Kenntnisse beheben.
Aber die Betamax-Maschinen scheinen ein anderes Kaliber zu sein.
Meine nostalgiebedingten Videorecorder-Bastelein haben mich auf jeden Fall Blut lecken lassen. Nur komme ich jetzt nicht weiter und hoffe, dass mir hier jemand helfen kann, der etwas tiefer in der Materie steckt.
hi there, i have a sony betamax SL-C6 Mark 1, video loads ok and the mechanics look good, audio ok, however picture just looks like it has very bad tracking problems. we have tried the manual tracking and cleaned video heads. i have some pictures i have took of what it looks like. any help appreciated
Tengo un Sony Sl-F1 pero el cabezal esta estropeado , alguien sabe donde puedo conseguir uno. Gracias
Whilst i don't have a downloadable version of this manual,i do have expertise in these classics and offer a full refurb if you are interested.
It will most definitely be in need of new belt's and idlers plus a full strip down of the mechanical's and pinch roller clean.Then a re cap to the PSU and full set up to ensure this is working to perfection.I've been doing this since 2001 and have sold many on E-Bay to keep this superb format alive.
If you are interested feel free to send an e-mail (it's under my name).
Hope this helps...................Kevin
Hi, first time here.
Sanyo M20 - is there a downloadable service manual that anyone has found? My M20 accepts the cassette, but only makes a whirring noise if I try to play, rewind or forward wind.
Regarding your Sony SLC5UB stopping at regular intervals of around 10 seconds during play. Set the machine to play with the top off and observe the tapes path to the back of the machine behind the head drum and the action of the tape slack tension lever just after the capstan roller. This should be firm and not moving in and out. Movement indicates that the forward tension is varying which may require replacement of the parts related with that mechanical drive system for the tapes pickup reel. That might be a rubber roller or the actual tension unit which has a slip mechanism involving a spring and felt pad under tension. The levers purpose is to stop the machine if the tape breaks or tangles of tape filling the machine under fault conditions.
regards Noel (Betaheaven.com) Australia
I wonder if anyone can help me with a very old Betamax player?
I have a Sony C5ub that's been in the loft for many years after a belt snapped, must be 20 years ago!
Finally got round to trying it again as have some irreplaceable tapes, having sourced some belts recently.
Replaced all and after some fettling and lubricating it appeared to start working albeit with a display that has some horizontal lines and flickers into b/w and back into colour during playing. Thought of replacing capacitors as per common advice but another show stopping issue has cropped up after it played nearly 15 mins.
Unfortunately, having run for 15 mins, this worst fault is that it plays for 10secs to a minute and then switches play off. It will start again when play is pressed and repeat the cycle. Fast forward and reverse seem to work at roughly the right speed whilst in this state. After going through the play-stop-play-stop routine a number of times it stops playing/FF/RW until power cycled. Then it works again as described. When it is in the 'failed' state it will still unload and load tapes but not play them until power is cycled.
Loading and unloading work at a reasonable speed and as mentioned all belts have been renewed (and that was a hard job).
Any suggestions would be gratefully received. I should add that this is the first time I have worked on a machine like this so please describe any adjustments or things to check with that in mind. Without the MrBetaByte videos on YouTube I wouldn't even have tried to recover this machine.
I know I'm probably looking for a unicorn but does anyone know where I can lay my hands on a reasonable condition SL-C9 ACE assembly for my Sony SL35 . Im in Brisbane Qld Australia.
In the middle of converting old family Beta tapes to DVD and sound has all but disappeared.
Thanks in Advance.
Many thanks for your response. I am looking at machines on ebay and one disadvantage of the Sanyo vtc-5000 is that many of them seem to be located in the UK. As I live in Ireland I have to take account of Brexit charges.
A slightly newer Sony from an EU seller and a vtc-5000 from a UK seller could end up costing me about the same. Pros and cons to everything I guess but with 1980s electronic/mechanical devices, relative simplicity and parts supply have to be big considerations in 2021!
Thursday 18th November 2021
11:38 pm U.K.
Regards to the Machines you were asking about sonys are good reliable machines but picture tends to be richer and a little grainy
the Sanyo VTC5000 is a blinding first timer machine, easy maintenance, parts available, simple bits like CAPS issues etc
heads are floating around for these units but you need to look to find them
any issues email us and may be able to help you
Apologies for the tardy reply, work has been manic
thanks for the numbers - was there replacement numbers in place only reason i ask is i have heads with numbers im not sure about
i know they are beta heads
once again many thanks for your help mate
Hi,I have a C6ub which has a perfect picture,but it is only in Black and white.I was told this is a common fault.....is there a fix for this
Hi, I recently purchased a Sony SL- C35LS and all was fine. I have been digitalising old tapes. The issue I am now having is with sound. The sound has reduced significantly to the point of being barely audible. I have cleaned every surface that looks like audio points to no avail. The picture is clear. Can someone direct me to where I can locate the audio pickups so i can ensure i have cleaned them all. To clean I used isopropyl alcohol and a cotton tip. Thanks for any assistance you can give.
I’m looking for Disk assembly for sony betamax sl-300me
Can you help me ?
I have been given a partly working Sony C7 and a box of home recorded tapes (some of which are very mouldy) that were recorded on it 1985-1991. The C7 loads and plays tapes but picture is unstable and flickers which I think means bad capacitors. Also, RW is very slow and some tapes won't RW at all.
I do not have the skills to attempt a repair but perhaps I can acquire the ability at some point. For now I'm thinking about buying a refurbished machine on ebay. Based on prices and reviews, I was thinking of a Sanyo VTC-5000 or a Sony SL-F60. One of the things that I want to do with the tapes is extract the teletext from them which is something I've done with VHS.
Considering my poor repair skills, limited budget and mouldy tapes, would anyone have any comment on the two machines mentioned above. Thanks!
In regards to your 'no sound' issue on the VTC 9300.
AS this is an early Sanyo and keeps the tape laced at all times.Check the sound part of the stationary head is'nt blocked with dirt/tape debris.Also Also check the lead, if using the optional audio output connection.
If using RF then the tuner may have an issue or it's frequency output needs tweaking, as many were retuned away from CH36 down to interference when Ch5 was first aired.
Failing all that it could be an issue with the sound board in the VCR (common suspects are Electrolytic caps or the IC itself).
Chaps need a little help here
I'm looking for the head part number for 2 models as i cant read them clearly from the heads i have, and just need someone else to confirm this
Sanyo VTC 5000 - it has a 7 digit number on the head and it looks like it reads 242V224 E3PS is this correct for this UK model
Sanyo VTC M40 - it also has a 7 digit number that's a bit unclear but it looks like it is 242V038 but I'm not sure - can some one check their machines or does anyone know this UK part number
the M40 looks like some faded numbers also looks like 40720 but not sure.
Can some one please help as i need a little assistance.
I have a Sanyo vtc 9300. I have it connected to T.V with a great picture quality. However, i cannot get any Audio. Tried several tapes and same issue,, great picture, no audio.
i have an SONY SL-5400 NTSC VCR without the poerating instructions primary manual can anybody can take the time to scan and send me a copy in pdf or jpeg of the SONY SL-5400 VCR operating instructions manual please'
any greetings will be appreciated my email is [email protected]
i have an SONY SL-5400 NTSC VCR without operating instructions primary manual can anyone can take a time to scan and send me an pdf or jpeg copy of the SONY SL-5400 operating instructions manual please?
Any greetings will be appreciated
I have an SONY SL-5400 NTSC VCR withtout the primary operating instructions primary manual can anyone can scan and send me an pdf copy of the SONY SL-5400 operating instructions mmanual please?
Any greetings will be appreciated
Apart from what Kevin told you which are the most likely issues, the Sony C20 (and other models in the series) can also have issues in the power supply with RF noise being generated by the regulator circuits if the capacitors have aged. Replace all three of the 10uF capacitors on the board. Another issue is the carrier balance setting which gives blue diagonal lines on the picture if not set correctly to null the carrier.
See http://www.palsite.com/slc20tech.html for hints on issues.
Check out Betamax models on Palsite under Technical page option. The link for the C6 is http://www.palsite.com/slc6tech.html
However as a rough guide replace all the light blue colour Sanyo electrolytics on the SS9 base board around the Drum and capstan servo areas of the board.
Over time these capacitors have either dried out changing capacity and or developed high ESR (equivalent series resistance) which changes the timing of R/C timing circuits.
Then adjust capstan and drum servo voltages as per manual of instructions on the technical page. Play a tape then do these adjustments. (The service manual says record but with no analogue TV broadcasts now that's more difficult to do unless you insert content via the AV line inputs) For Capstan adjust RV3 whilst monitoring TP5 test point to set voltage to 5.5V. For Drum servo adjust RV9 on SS9 board whilst measuring voltage at Drum test point which I think you set to 5.1V using a CRO. I don't know the TP number for sure but I think its TP2. However you can set it by eye using the playback picture and leave the adjustment at the midpoint between when each end of the adjustment where it rolls.
That is the general electrical issues addressed. Hardware alignment might also need attention, that is a clean and then adjustment to tape path if necessary.
Be aware that replacement belt kits are often needed to restore these machines to correct operation.
regards Noel (Betaheaven.com - Australia down under)
Hi folks, I wonder if anyone can help? I've recently purchased an untested C6 from ebay. I got lucky in that it powers up, laces perfectly and all functions are "working" only the picture is terrible. The picture is visible but there's hunting / surging, a haze of static and a continual strip at the bottom of the image that I can't track out. I haven't started pulling it apart yet other than to clean the heads. I am going to assume that at least some of the caps need replacing. I wonder if anyone has a list of the types, ratings etc.? I see this was done a few years ago here http://www.r11txe.co.uk/uploaded/c6-ss9-caplist.xls but the webpage is now down. I'm also going to try to find a replacement belt set. Thank you in advance.
Hi Kev, Thankyou for the reply. Had a closer look and it seems to be the wheel with the tyre that's the problem, Fast forward and forward search it seems to flip over nice and strong but on rewind and reverse picture its lazy and doesnt seem to push as strongly against the rewind spool then clicks off back to the middle after around 3 seconds. Any ideas please?....
In regards to your current issues with the C20 , it's down to either the heads are dirty,worn or damaged as that would cause static and no picture.
Also check the soldered part of the BNC OUTPUT as those types of sockets to the boards on the Sony's are vulnerable to knocks resulting in the solder getting cracked.
As you have static though i would suspect the first three things to check.
If you have never cleaned a video's heads then tread carefully as they are VERY FRAGILE.
What i would suggest is put tape in your know to be good quality and let that play for a time, even FF and REW it, as it's always laced around the head drum.
See if things improve.
I have a Sony C20 that is in really nice condition but whatever tape I try to play it is just snowy / static. If I fast forward or rewind then I do see some faint scrolling diagonal lines. I am pretty sure that the tapes do have content on them so I am assuming the unit itself is faulty.
I am connecting to the composite input on my CRT tv using the BNC video output on the back of the Betamax with a BNC to RCA adapter. I assuming that this should give me an output but i am not sure if I need to use the RF output instead.
Do these particular symptoms suggest an area I should be focusing on to try and repair?
Hopefully someone can help
Good to see you here.
You say the idler (center pulley) is playing up.It sounds to me like it's a bit stiff on the shaft for it not too move like you state.
As the geared top part does the search and PLAY modes and the rubber lower the FF,REW and take up after stop.
Also on the very early VTC 5000 's (with the flip out right side end sensor and one piece clutch).Some of these center pulleys were shiny for the contact part of the rubber idler tyre. Sanyo soon realized that mistake and all other plastic friction areas were grooved.
The one piece clutch's (which could be tricky to set up and therefore make the back tension at times a bit higher than required) were also exchanged after time for the more reliable and consistent two piece ones fitted to their Beta's right up until the end of production.
As for your issue i would see if the center pulley is a bit stiff or not move freely and then make sure the others mechanicals are also free to move.
Also a video of said action is a big help too..
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